clothing-LM-msg - 11/29/01

SCA clothing for large males.

NOTE: See also the files: clothing-L-msg, child-clothes-msg, cloaks-msg, clothing-books-msg, clothing-MN-msg, pants-msg, patterns-msg, shoes-msg. 

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Thank you,
    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous
                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Garb Help
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 13:43:54 -0600
From: Aceia <aceia at mac.com>
To: <ansteorra at ansteorra.org>

From: "Aurore Gaudin" <Aurore at hot.rr.com>
> > Where do you live?  Sometimes the Hospitaler has some clothes to borrow or
> > another lord may be willing to loan him some.
>Middleford.  Our beloved Hospitaler has seen my husband.  She has nothing
>that would even close to fitting him.  And he is bigger than majority of our
>local lords.  Just to give an idea 6'4" and nearly 300lbs.  Shopping for his
>clothes is fun.

My husband, while not as tall is about that size.  I don't like using sheets
to make clothes for him because they are a very tight weave, so sleeves
don't bend well without cutting into the arm and clothes made from them tend
to be hot and don't breathe.

I have made him a lot of poorly fitting tunics and have finally found the
recipie for success when making clothes for large men.

For a good tunic, I prefer to get about 4 yards (for short sleeves) of some
nice soft cotton fabric (like muslin dyed with Rit and Salt and Vinegar).
Sometimes I use two different colors in 2 yard segments.  Use this to make a
nice roomy T-tunic basing the pattern on one of his looser t-shirts.

I put a seam down the center front and back so that I get enough width out
of the fabric (really looks best when made 2-color, one side one color and
the other side a nice contrast).

I make it about 20" longer than the t-shirt so it is a decent length (best
to measure on him).  For large men it is actually best not to use the
selvadge as a center line, it is best to curve the center line up gradually
so there is more width  (especially in the center front where they carry
most of the weight - the garment needs to be fuller in front).  In other
words, you will make the line from bellybutton to the neck a gentle curve
inward to the neck. I also tend to angle the side seams out farther from the
armpit for even more width, but that is optional.  Keep in mind tho, that if
you add an inch on each underarm piece, you are adding 4" to the entire
garment.  Add just a little, not a lot. If you want to use the selvadges as
a straight line, use them for the seam under the arm and the arm hole, and
then add sleeves as seperate squares.  It will seem like you are canting the
entire pattern almost 45% and in fact you are, this makes the garment much
more comfortable for big guys.

I match the neckline to the t-shirt (higher in back and lower in front), but
then leave the center seam open 4" down from the neck.

As a fashion note, I think my guy looks better if I make the garment so the
waistline is long enough for him to belt it and have a little space to pull
a small amount up out of the belt so he can raise his arms easily. If I have
60" fabric (muslin sometimes comes that big) I think it looks better if at
the waistline on the side seams, I have enough to make a 45% angle out to
the hem thus creating an early period 'Skirt' effect (don't tell him that
tho!)

These alterations also work on 'shirt' patterns for late-period shirts and
doublets.

As to pants, my husband sometimes favors a type of pant sold at Big & Tall
stores.  it has an elastic waist and elastic cuffs and pockets and often
comes in 'funky' patterned fabric.  They are very similar to sweat pants but
fit a little baggier.  I took a worn out pair of these and cut them apart to
make a pant pattern my husband loves.  You could probably do this same thing
with sweat pants or pajama pants.  They are pretty easy.  I have even been
able to use this pattern shortened to the knee and with cuffs to give a
late-period look.

a friend gave me excellent advice for an easy way to draft doublet patterns
to fit any man - Take one of his button up dress shirts, copy the body
section for a simple doublet (but use heavier fabric or even better, cut out
two doublets and sew them together so one is a lining for the other), if you
want sleeves on your doublet, then add the sleeves, if you want a collar,
then use the measurements from the collar.  This pattern can also be used to
make any kind of fitted button up garment.  The one this friend was wearing
was a late period Base that buttoned up, had long sleeves, and had a pleated
skirt attached to the waistline.  It looked really really nice.

Hope that helps!  If you have any questions or need diagrams, let me know.

Robin Anderson of Ross
Wife to 'Little' Conor Drummond

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